A Visit with John Hitchcock

Michael Alden of The London Lounge has posted a video of his recent visit with John Hitchcock, the managing director of Anderson & Sheppard, one of the great names in bespoke men’s tailoring.  In addition to describing the A&S style and methods of making elegant men’s clothes, Hitchcock verified something that I’ve suspected for some time.  Hitchcock said that A&S sales were up 25% over last year, even in this economic environment.

I believe there are two issues at work.  One is that men, particularly younger men, are becoming more interested in classic style.  A recent New York Times piece says the same thing.

“The older generation, say 45-plus, look upon success as being able to dress down,” said Marshal Cohen, the chief analyst at NPD Group, which tracks retail sales. “They think being able to wear jeans is the epitome of achievement.

“But the younger generation is looking at getting dressed up and making their mark,” Mr. Cohen continued. “It’s a real generation gap here. I teach at three different colleges, and I am amazed how dressed up some of the students are. Girls still come in their hoodies and pajamas, but boys come in their suits.”

I’m a little annoyed with Cohen’s use of “45-plus” as the beginning of “the older generation,” but even a hard truth is still truth, and in this case I am gratified to see it.

The second issue is something that has always been true, that there are men who will pay for excellence, who will sacrifice for something better, something above the ordinary and average experience.  As the younger generations assert themselves more completely, I hope for great things.

With that, please enjoy Mr. Alden’s video and Happy Holidays to you.

Men’s style: A visit with John Hitchcock from Michael Alden on Vimeo.

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

Donegal Tweeds

Yes, yes, yes, I know, not more tweed.  Yes, more tweed.  Sorry, I love the stuff.

My friends at Bookster have a few new bullets in their gun.  They’ve got several new fabrics on their site, but the ones I find the most interesting are some Porter & Harding Thornproof Donegals.  Donegal is a relatively soft tweed with multicolored slubs.  I just asked them to send me a few samples.  I probably have just about enough brown tweed, but the blue, green and stone look rather interesting.

I’ll let you know what I do with it, probably an odd jacket.  Or two.

Blue ThornproofGreen ThornproofBrown ThornproofStone Thornproof

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

Follow-Up on “The Wooster Project”

I was almost exactly right with my prognostication, Bookster sent me an e-mail this morning informing me that they had despatched my Wooster suit.  Perhaps I’ll have something next week!

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

The aforementioned carpincho gloves

They have sort of an odd feeling, it’s a sueded leather that’s extremely soft to the touch.  They appear to be quite well-made, however, and fit…well… like a glove.  Which is really the point, isn’t it?

Carpincho glovesYou can see the spots that identify it as either carpincho or peccary very well in this photo.

Chester Jefferies does good work.  If you’re in the market for some gloves made just for you, I can give them a great recommendation.

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

The Bookster overcoat

Back in July I ordered a pseudo-Chesterfield overcoat from my friends at Bookster.  I’ve been impatiently waiting for quite a while for its delivery, but today was the day. And I was surprised that today was the day, seeing as how the package tracking insists that the coat is still in New York, which it clearly is not.

It’s a very dark, nearly black, herringbone Harris tweed, single breasted, peak lapels, velvet collar, fly front (four buttons, owing to my height), with a very vivid red lining.  In addition to the normal inside breast pockets, I had them sew in a “poaching pocket,” it’s a large internal pocket where the cell phone/cigarette pocket is in a normal jacket, sized to accommodate a cashmere scarf.  I think it’s going to work.

Now for the Wooster suit…  :-)

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

The Art of Manliness advises us on the Mad Men haircut

I’ve long been a fan of The Art of Manliness, their feed has been in my sidebar since day one.  It pleased but did not surprise me to learn that Brett is a Mad Man.  Today Brett posted The Mad Men Guide to a Manly Haircut.

Don Draper and the other men at Sterling Cooper have haircuts that demand that you take them seriously. Your grandpa probably did his hair the same way: tight on the sides with a sharp part on the left side of the head. And of course, the hair needs that healthy looking shine.

Unfortunately, many men today walk around with the same boyish haircuts they’ve had since high school. Sure, your hair spiked in the front or tussled carelessly looked cool when you were 17, but it looks goofy when you’re 30. You want a haircut that looks manly, not juvenile.

To help upgrade your hairstyle to something more respectable, we provide the following tips from the Emmy Award-winning hairstylist of Mad Men, Gloria Ponce.

Mad ManWorth noting that I’d been sporting the ‘Don Draper’ for a month before this piece ran. :-)

FYI, while Brett likes good ol’ Brylcreem, and Gloria Ponce prefers American Crew products, I’ve been using Gage for Men products for quite a while now since my stylist recommended them to me, and I like them a lot.  The Gage products all have a very masculine fragrance that I find rather pleasant.  The scent is very old school barbershop, I enjoy it.  It’s not so overpowering that it would interfere with a cologne or after shave, however.

I haven’t tried any of the pomades yet, but I’ve used and liked the 3/4 Cream, the Shaping Gel, and of course, the Daily Shampoo and Daily Conditioner.

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

Brooks Brothers found their marketing mojo.

Brooks Bros. "Mad Men" SuitI’ve not noticed this showing up on the Brooks Brothers website yet, but it’s an unexpected display of marketing acumen on their part.  This is the Brooks Brothers Mad Men suit designed not by Thom Browne (thank God) but the show’s costume designer, Janie Bryant.

Since I can’t find a description of the suit on Brooks’ website yet, I’ll crib this one from Uncrate:

What would you pay to be Don Draper or Roger Sterling? How about to look like them? The Brooks Brothers Mad Men Edition Suit ($1,000; October 19) pays homage to AMC’s hit show with a medium gray sharkskin suit designed by Janie Bryant, the Emmy-nominated costume designer for the show, and is modeled after Draper’s and Sterling’s wardrobes. Features include a noticeably slim cut, diagonal pockets, narrower notch lapels, and side vents. Limited to just 250, the suit is made in a Brooks-owned factory in Massachusetts, and while it might be more classically stylish than your current attire, don’t expect it to magically turn you into Jon Hamm.

Speaking of Mad Men, Don Draper was recently selected as AskMen.com’s Most Influential Man of 2009.  Quite an honor for someone who doesn’t actually exist to be considered so influential. From AMC’s Mad Men blog:

“Men are seeking the stability of tradition in the masculine qualities that they imagine their fathers and grandfathers to have had,” says James Bassil, AskMen’s editor-in-chief.   “The character of Don Draper brings all these traits together, and in doing so speaks directly to the modern man. He’s a man whose time has come.”

I’m not certain we should be adopting all of Don’s traits, but I’d be pleased if the show’s style caught on.  (The narrow ties and lapels are a bit too narrow for my taste, but you know what I mean.)

If nothing else, if Mad Men inspires a few men to purchase their first fedora and wear it with pride and confidence, I will consider it a Very Good Thing.  And besides, when you contemplate Don’s style and influence, remember what Don goes home to.  When he goes home, that is…

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

Glove Rampage

CarpinchoThis handsome fellow is a carpincho, also known as a capybara.  They have two great distinctions, one is that they are the world’s largest rodent.  The second, and the reason he graces our page today, is that carpincho leather makes a fine pair of gloves because it only stretches in one direction.

A while back I commissioned a pair of bespoke carpincho gloves, what they call “buffed hogskin” for some odd reason, from Chester Jefferies.  I’ve not received them yet, but I’m anxiously awaiting their arrival.  Another much sought after glove material very similar to carpincho is peccary, which is a sort of South American pig.  In fact, many gloves that are sold as peccary are actually carpincho, so similar in presentation are the leathers.

Carpincho GlovesThis pair of gloves is carpincho, and is very similar to the pair I have on order from Chester Jefferies, at least in color if not style.  The untrained eye (mine, for example) would be hard pressed to tell it from the significantly more expensive peccary.   The distinguishing visual feature is obviously the odd pattern of spots on the leather.

Both carpincho and peccary are both extremely hard wearing but soft leathers and make a very attractive and functional glove.

But I’ve not stopped there.  No, it’s been a glove bonanza around my place lately, and it’s all powered by eBay, which has made it very reasonably inexpensive.

Will Boelhke ran a column a couple of years ago in which he praised yellow chamois gloves.  Says Will:

Once a common gentleman’s glove but now seen infrequently, yellow chamois shows dirt easily and because of that has a relatively short lifespan. On the plus side of the ledger, an unlined pair is a soft, sensual pleasure to wear with a dark Chesterfield, a silk or cashmere scarf and a Homburg hat.

I consider that column every time I think I need some new gloves, but I’d never seen a pair of yellow chamois gloves and wasn’t terribly inspired by the prospect of having a pair made, as Will did (by Chester Jefferies, incidentally.)  But I was looking for something completely unrelated on eBay recently and ran across these:

Chamois GlovesJay Kos is a very high-end men’s clothing store in New York, and an eBay merchant had a number of pairs of chamois gloves (made for Kos by Jefferies) for a fraction of the $250 retail price, so I snagged a pair, shown at right.  I’m thinking about snagging a few more.  Will is right, they feel great on the hands.   One problem Will identified is that the chamois gets dirty fairly quickly.  I figured a way around that problem, however.  Cashmere.

Cashmere GlovesThe same vendor had these for sale, yellow cashmere (left).  They’re actually not quite as nuclear yellow as they appear in this photo, but they’re pretty darned yellow.  They also say they’re made in England, but there’s no Jefferies tag inside and I really can’t determine who makes them.  Still they’re very fine gloves and I imagine that they’ll work well in the same scenario Will imagines wearing the chamois, and I could probably have the cashmere cleaned when it gets dirty.

Grey Suede GlovesAnother pair I bought a while back for wear with my Chesterfield, and an option that Will speaks highly of, are these grey suede.  These are one of the very traditional choices for gentlemen’s day or evening wear, and they look quite smart with my nearly black Chesterfield overcoat.

The point Will was making in his post, and one I would like to reiterate, is that there are options beyond plain old brown and black calf leather, and you shouldn’t be afraid to branch out, particularly when you’re dressed a bit above average.  There’s nothing at all wrong with brown or black, of course, but why not wear something a little more interesting than that?

Try different materials and colors.

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

We’ve changed to the autumn color scheme.

I hope it meets with your approval.  :-)

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...

Aramis Gentlemen’s Collection

Aramis Gentlemen's CollectionI’ve been stingy with my dwindling supply of the brilliant and inexplicably discontinued Aramis Havana cologne for months, but now I can apply with abandon again because Aramis have reissued Havana in its Gentlemen’s Collection.

In addition to Havana (1994), Aramis are reissuing several other fragrances in their catalog, including Aramis 900 (1974), Devin (1977), JHL (1981), Tuscany Per Uomo (1984) and New West for Him (1988).

I can’t speak to any of the other fragrances in the collection, but I agree with Aramis’ description of Havana:

According to Aramis, Havana is “Charismatic, Well-Blended, Smooth, Sensual, Electric, Sexy, Masculine, Warm, Vibrant, Pulsating, Virile, Seductive, Hypnotic and Intoxicating.”  Quite.  As you might imagine of a fragrance called “Havana,” it’s a very spicy, tobacco heavy scent, anything but subtle and delicate.  I’m just hoping that Aramis didn’t water down the reissue, as so often happens.  Best of all is the very reasonable $48 price tag for a 3.4oz bottle.

Bookmark and Share
Continue Reading or Post a Comment...