Joe Hemrajani measuring a customer

At the Masonic Society’s forum we’ve been discussing the virtues of Brooks Brothers‘ custom shirt program versus a bespoke or a made-to-measure product from a tailor.  I thought it might be valuable to discuss how the made-to-measure process works, at least with the tailor I use.  The process is essentially identical with almost all tailors, however.

I should probably begin by discussing the difference between the terms “bespoke” and “made-to-measure.”  You’ll frequently hear those terms used interchangeably in advertising, but that’s somewhat inaccurate and misleading.

Made-to-measure refers to a process in which the tailor begins with an existing pattern and adjusts it to fit your particular measurements.  You’ll be able to select your fabrics and specify many of the styling elements. There usually aren’t any intermediate fittings with made-to-measure tailors, they measure you, produce the garment and then deliver it.  Adjustments to the fit will be made on subsequent purchases.

Bespoke tailors don’t begin with an existing pattern.  When you commission your first shirt or suit from a bespoke tailor, the cutter will take your measurements and start with a clean sheet of paper, producing a pattern that is specific to you and you alone.  In the case of shirts, some tailors will make a prototype shirt, ask you to launder it as you typically would a couple of times and wear the shirt to check the fit.  Others will simply make a real first shirt.  Adjustments will be made to the pattern after verifying the fit, then the remainder of your order produced.  In the case of suits, they’ll produce a “forward baste,” which is your actual suit very roughly sewn together.  The lapels will not be attached, it won’t be fully lined, pockets not finished and so forth.  The tailor will check the fit, mark up the suit, take it completely apart, recut it and sew it back together again.  This may be done a few times until both parties are satisfied with the fit.  Only then will the suit be completed and finished.

I’ve made the decision that I cannot justify the added expense of fully bespoke suits and shirts, which can be several times the cost of made-to-measure.

I work with a traveling tailor, Hemrajani Brothers, but there are many different tailors who provide the same service, and it may well be that you have a local tailor in your area.  Certainly in larger cities, even here in Indianapolis, there are local tailors you can work with to achieve the same results.  This is how Hemrajani’s process works.  Several times a year, one of their tailors (in my case it’s usually Mr. Ram Keswani) moves into a hotel room for a couple of days with about 3000 fabric books.  At your first visit, the tailor will take a very extensive set of measurements and some photographs of you so they’ll have records of your body type.  Then he’ll discuss what kind of garments you’re looking for, suits, shirts, trousers, sport coats, dinner suits.  Hemrajani even makes custom linen pajamas.  You’ll select your fabrics, then your styling details.  In your shirts, do you want a button down or point collar?  What kind of collar spread?  Button or French cuffs?  How many buttons?  Shoulder pleats?  Pockets?  Length of your tails?  With suits, single or double breasted?  Notch or peak lapels?  How many buttons?  Waistcoat?  Hacking pockets?  Ticket pockets?  Pick stitching?  Lining color?  Working sleeve buttons?  Pleats or cuffs on your trousers?  Belt loops or braces?  Brace back?

It seems daunting, but he’ll happily lead you through all of the fabric and styling choices to arrive at something appropriate for you.  Remember, you’ll be a walking advertisement for their services, so it’s in his best interest to make sure that whatever you get looks just right.

After taking your credit card and billing and shipping information, he’ll hand you a card reminding you when and what you ordered, how much you paid, and will tell you to expect a box in 6-8 weeks.  At this point, your measurements and order are sent to Hemrajani’s California offices where they adjust your pattern, then the whole order and pattern are transmitted to Hemrajani’s Hong Kong production facility where your garments are actually produced, then shipped back to California and thence to your front door.

Your shirts will need to be laundered about three times before you’ll really have a feel for the fit.  (A small amount of fabric shrinkage is computed into the pattern.)  Suits, jackets and trousers should be taken to the dry cleaners for a professional pressing — that suit has been stuffed in the box for a while.  BTW, Hemrajani includes a beautiful hanger with every suit you buy.  It’s a little touch that adds a lot of value.

Honestly, your first order probably won’t be perfect.  My first suit needed some adjustments to the sleeves, my shirts needed a bit of room in the shoulders.  The next time you meet with your tailor, wear the clothes you bought last time.  He’ll make those adjustments to your pattern and the next effort will be closer.  After three sessions, we’re both completely happy with the way everything fits. The first session’s results were better than anything I ever bought from a store, however.

The cost depends almost completely on the fabrics you choose.  Better fabric = higher cost, but in general I’ve found the price of the things I’ve bought from Hemrajani to be on par with better mainstream department store and mens’ shop brands, and the fit and construction are superior.  Hemrajani’s jackets are full canvas construction, not fused (essentially glued together) as most mainstream brands are, canvas construction creates a much softer and lighter garment that wears better and conforms more closely to your body.  And I get what I want, not what the store has.

Again, Hemrajani is who I use, they have a good product AND they visit Indianapolis, many tailors don’t.  (Their website tells you where and when they’re visiting.)  They’re not paying me, I’m simply a satisfied customer relaying my experience with them to you.  There are many tailors from which to choose — but not as many as there used to be.  I encourage my gentleman readers to utilize the services of tailors who produce clothing that is made to fit your body, especially in the case of shirts.  Custom shirts are a fantastic value proposition, and you’ll never realize how badly your shirts fit and feel until you buy a proper shirt.